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Vietnam - A Tale of Two Cities
May 2008

At polar ends of the country, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City provide visitors with two different urban experiences that represent enchanting Vietnam.

An alluring blend of history and scenery, Vietnam is the ultimate escape for travellers seeking a dose of culture and a taste of the exotic. With a dramatic landscape of mountains, cascading rice paddies, and a coastline dotted with beaches, cliffs and secluded islands, visitors will lose themselves in this country's charms.

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, only two hours apart by plane, best represent Vietnam's character. Steeped in tradition yet embracing the new, they are essential stops on your itinerary.

A French presence can still be felt in the city streets, while colourful markets, vibrant shopping districts, and a national cuisine consisting of some 500 dishes provide the ultimate feast for the senses. The sky is the limit in Vietnam, so soak up the atmosphere and indulge.

Historic Hanoi
Located in the far north, Vietnam's capital was once the capital of French Indochine, and you can still catch glimpses of its Gallic past. Parisian architecture, fresh baguettes, café-lined streets and greetings of "bonjour" have lingered, and the city still evolves with grace. Start in the "Old Quarter" – a maze of narrow streets that has been Hanoi's centre of commercial activity since the 13th century.

Wander through streets featuring a dizzying array of goods from temple offerings to silks, lacquerware and water puppets. For a sensory overload, head to Dong Xuan market, you'll find hundreds of stalls selling everything you could imagine. Surrounding the quarter, you'll discover the curious narrow “tubehouses” unique to Hanoi.

Must-sees in Hanoi include the stunning Hoan Kiem Lake, the One-pillar Pagoda, the beaux-arts style Opera House, and the finely preserved Temple of Literature. The ancient art of water puppetry originated in the north, so ensure you see these colourful, carved puppets gliding across water to Vietnamese music, performances are held at Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.

Take in Hanoi's private art galleries, found along Pho Trang Tien, and for more shopping, the area around Nha Tho is fast gaining a reputation as Hanoi's equivalent to the Paris Marais district. Here, stylish restaurants and cafes mingle with the boutiques.

Gastronomes will be well-looked after in Hanoi. Seafood is abundant, and well-known dishes such as Pho (fragrant noodle soup) and fresh spring rolls are staples, but make sure to try local specialties.

For Vietnamese haute cuisine, visit Club Opera at 59 Pho Ly Thai To. Cafes along Pho Hang Hanh serve traditional Vietnamese coffee, which is intense and very addictive.

Taxis are ideal for zipping between the sights and car hire is another great way to tour, and the fee includes a driver. If you have time for a day trip, take a tour to the Perfume Pagoda. A two-hour drive and scenic boat trip brings you to this impressive complex of pagodas and Buddhist shrines built into limestone cliffs.

The City of Contrasts
Anointed by the French as "The Pearl of the Orient", Saigon is now Ho Chi Minh City, but remains worthy of the compliment, the city has modernised quickly, but kept its character. Amidst the high-rises you'll still find monks praying in pagodas and examples of French colonial architecture, and while everyone is whizzes by on motorbikes, the women do so in traditional dress.

Take a boat ride along the Saigon River to watch the city glide by, then continue your explorations on foot, but an entertaining way to see the sights is by cyclo (a three-wheeled rickshaw). Take in the French-style Post Office, the Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral and the stunning interior of Reunification Palace. In the Cholon, you'll find ornate pagodas, and at the War Remnants Museum, the extraordinary story of the Vietnam War is depicted simply and movingly through photographs.

HCMC is a shoppers' paradise – fashion boutiques abound, and many will custom-tailor your purchases. Vietnamese tailors are renowned for their skill, and everything from suits to dresses can be crafted according to your specifications.

The best restaurant and bars in the country are said to be in HCMC. Southern Vietnamese cuisine is spicier and more aromatic, so for examples of local specialties visit Mandarine at 11A Ngo Van Dam and Indochine at 32 Pham Ngoc Thach. Of the city's excellent French restaurants, Le Caprice at 5B Ton Duc Thang offers spectacular views of the river.

Set aside a day to visit nearby Cu Chi and the elaborate network of tunnels dug by the Viet Cong – you can also stop by the province of Thay Ninh, home to the colourful Cao Dai Great Temple. Here, you'll encounter the daily rituals of Vietnam's most interesting indigenous religion against a truly striking setting.